Glycyrrhetinic acid is a treasure ingredient in the field of skincare that combines the core functions of repair, anti-inflammatory, and whitening. As the core active ingredient in licorice extract, it has become a necessary ingredient for stabilizing sensitive skin, anti-inflammatory acne prone skin, and whitening dull skin due to its mild and efficient properties. It is widely used in high-end skincare and hospital repair products and is regarded as a "versatile functional ingredient" by formulators.
1、 Basic knowledge of raw materials
Glycyrrhetinic acid is a pentacyclic triterpenoid active compound extracted and isolated from the root and stem of licorice. It is the core functional monomer in licorice extract and the active metabolite of glycyrrhetinic acid. Compared with traditional licorice extract, it has higher activity, stronger permeability, and more precise action. In production, it is mainly obtained through the extraction, separation, purification, and structural modification of licorice, which is divided into two isomers: alpha and beta. Among them, beta glycyrrhetinic acid is the most widely used configuration in the field of skincare, with stable physical and chemical properties, suitable for the vast majority of skincare formula systems, and has excellent biocompatibility, making it skin friendly.
Core Features
1） Efficient and precise activity: As the active monomer of glycyrrhetinic acid, it does not require skin metabolism conversion and can directly exert its effect, with efficacy several times that of ordinary licorice extract
2）Mild and hypoallergenic safety: Natural plant-based, non irritating, non allergenic, safe for pregnant women and severely sensitive skin to use with peace of mind
3）Wide compatibility: it can be compounded with various ingredients such as moisturizing, whitening, anti-aging, acids, etc., without conflict, mud rubbing, and can also weaken the irritation of other ingredients
4）Stable and long-lasting properties: It is not easily deactivated or deteriorated in conventional skincare acid-base environments, and can be stored at room temperature to retain its complete activity. It is suitable for various product formulations
2、 Detailed explanation of the four core functions
1）Anti inflammatory, soothing and red fading, emergency improvement of skin discomfort
Inhibit the release and diffusion of inflammatory factors, block the sensitization transmission of histamine, quickly resolve the five types of stress reactions of skin redness, swelling, itching, burning, and stinging, while regulating the skin's immune status and reducing its sensitivity to external stimuli. It can deal with seasonal allergic redness, skin burning after sun exposure, skin care intolerance to irritation, inflammatory acne redness and swelling, and post medical wound redness. It can instantly calm and soothe, and can quickly restore abnormal skin conditions in 15 minutes. It is a "first aid repair tool" for sensitive skin.
2） Whitening, brightening and lightening spots, evenly improving dull skin tone
Inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase, blocking the synthesis and transport of melanin, while accelerating the metabolic breakdown of melanin, fundamentally improving the problems of dull, waxy, and uneven skin tone. It can also fade pigmentation, sunspots, and acne scars, giving the skin a transparent, bright, and healthy texture. Different from traditional whitening ingredients, its whitening effect is mild and non irritating, without causing damage to the skin barrier. Sensitive skin can also use it with confidence, making it the preferred ingredient for "mild whitening".

3）Strengthen the skin barrier and repair damaged skin types
Promote the growth and differentiation of stratum corneum cells, fill the lipid gap between cells, stabilize the skin barrier structure, enhance the skin's ability to lock in water and resist external stimuli, while improving skin dryness, flaking, dryness, itching and other problems, making the skin stronger and healthier. For scenarios such as excessive skincare damage, acid peeling, damage to the barrier after minimally invasive medical beauty treatments, and seasonal dryness, itching, and pain, it can quickly repair damaged barriers, reduce frequent skin sensitivity issues, and create "thick skin healthy skin" through long-term use.
4）Control oil, suppress acne, maintain stability, and improve the condition of acne prone skin
Inhibit the excessive secretion of sebaceous glands, reduce the amount of oil produced by the skin, while unclogging pores and improving the problem of enlarged pores. It can also inhibit the proliferation of Propionibacterium acnes, reduce the formation of inflammatory acne, fade red acne marks, and achieve the triple effect of oil control, acne suppression, and stability maintenance. Suitable for the daily skincare needs of oily and oily skin, gentle and non irritating, without causing dryness and peeling like traditional acne removing ingredients. Long term use can improve the problem of repeated acne growth in acne prone skin, keeping the skin fresh and stable.
3、 Core mechanism of action
1）Anti inflammatory and Soothing Pathway: By inhibiting the activation of the NF - κ B inflammatory signaling pathway, reducing the release of inflammatory factors such as IL-6 and TNF - α, and blocking the histamine H1 receptor, the skin's allergic stress response is reduced, and discomfort symptoms such as redness, itching, and tingling are quickly alleviated.
2）Whitening and Brightening Pathway: By competitively inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase, blocking the conversion of tyrosine to dopa and dopaquinone, the synthesis of melanin is reduced at the root, while accelerating the metabolism and shedding of melanin in the stratum corneum, achieving the effect of whitening, lightening spots, and even skin tone.
3） Barrier repair pathway: promotes the proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes, increases the synthesis of intercellular lipids, fills the structural gap in the stratum corneum, enhances the skin's water retention ability, strengthens the protective function of the skin barrier, and makes the skin stronger and more resilient.
4）Oil control and acne suppression pathway: Inhibits the activity of 5 α - reductase, reduces the oil secretion of sebaceous glands, and inhibits the growth and reproduction of Propionibacterium acnes, reducing the inflammatory response of hair follicles, reducing the generation of acne, and achieving the effect of oil control and acne suppression.
Multi dimensional synergistic effect, achieving a comprehensive skincare effect of instant soothing and fading of redness, long-term whitening and anti-aging, continuous repair of barriers, and mild oil control and acne suppression.
4、 Suitable for skin type and population
Suitable for skin type
Dry sensitive muscle, dry mixed muscle, oil pockmarked muscle, oil mixed skin, thin skin with damaged barrier, dark and heavy yellow muscle, mature anti-aging muscle, season changing sensitive muscle, all skin types are universal, especially suitable for sensitive muscle, pockmarked muscle, dark and heavy muscle.
Target audience
1）People with sensitive skin who have fragile skin barriers, frequent redness, dryness, and itching, and are prone to allergies to external stimuli
2）People with dark and yellowish facial features, pigmentation, sun spots, and red acne scars who want gentle whitening and brightening
3）People with acne prone skin, oily skin, and repeated oily acne on the face who want to control oil, suppress acne, and maintain stability
4）After daily acid brushing and medical beauty skincare, people who need to repair barriers and soothe fading red need to
5） People who experience skin discomfort after exposure to sunlight or skincare products, and have daily emergency repair needs
6）Mature skin, a full range of skin care people who want to give consideration to anti-aging, repair and whitening

5、 Industry standard addition concentration
Basic daily repair and soothing: 0.1% -0.3%, meeting the needs of daily stability maintenance, soothing and fading, and basic whitening
Advanced efficacy additives: 0.3% -1%, strengthening the core functions of anti-inflammatory repair, whitening and spot lightening, oil control and acne suppression. The raw materials have high activity and can exert excellent effects at a reasonable low concentration, without causing any burden on the skin. They are suitable for the formula needs of the vast majority of skincare products.